Ireland, the Country I Need to Redo

I alluded to my brief trip to Ireland in a previous entry, but never really talked about what happened there.

Ireland used to be my pinnacle country, my number one destination in my travel Bucket List (now replaced with Greece). Why? Newfoundland and Ireland have extremely strong ties. According to the Ireland Newfoundland Partnership, about 50% of my province’s population is of Irish origin. We share striking cultural bonds, and even noticeably similar accents. We both have histories of fighting for independence, and struggles with poverty.

We also share a love for the drink. Next to Quebec, Newfoundland sells more beer per capita than any other Canadian province, despite the entire island’s population being just 500,000. It’s no wonder I fit in here.

Dublin by night.

Dublin by night.

I was ecstatic about my four days in Dublin. I thought I’d feel a connection to the country unlike any other travel experience I’d ever have. Instead, I spent my trip cowering from the heavy rainfall, miserably cold and wet, and suffering from a bad case of gastroenteritis. Almost every Irish person I met was incredibly rude, and the whole experience left a bad taste in my mouth. (Ironically, my first night out in Dublin was the most fun I’ve ever had abroad, but that’s a different story.)

I realized too late my problem was that I stayed mostly confined to Dublin, with a brief trip to Cork (by that point, I was already suffering from the virus). At the time, Dublin was an extremely rich city, with minimum wage being a whopping 8 Euros/hour. Others in my group did a four-day Contiki tour around the countryside and other cities, and they all had the time of their lives. You live, you learn, I guess.

There are few places I really, really want to revisit. I’d do anywhere twice, but Ireland is somewhere I need to return so I can find the real experience I was looking for. Nothing excites me more than hearing Irish music flowing out from a pub, and I’m never having more fun than when I’m linked arms with someone and dancing a reel around the dance-floor.

So now with my roommate Matt gearing up for a trip around Ireland in 2011, I’ve decided to consider the option too. It’s insanely cheap to fly there from here, and we’d have couches to crash the whole time. Plus there’s the whole redhead thing, I mean, I’m practically Irish by default, right? Irish people might welcome me into their homes and attempt to adopt me.

See? I can be a Galway Girl.

See? I can be a Galway Girl.

Have you ever been to Ireland? What do you recommend?

  • December 11 2010

    everytime I see that picture I want to take up painting again. . .

    But, anyway, I think you should go to Ireland :) Heck, you make me want to go to Ireland ;P

    • December 13 2010

      Let’s go!

      • December 14 2010

        haha, you go, bring back stories to tell me on the drive to PEI ;)

  • December 11 2010

    As much as I love Dublin, many people could visit it and have the same type of experience they might could have in NYC for example. Quintessential Ireland, for me, is outside of Dublin, in the Irish countryside. It’s exploring the cliffs rising above the Irish sea, checking out the many Irish castles, and popping in and out of Irish pubs in each town. However, if you do make it to Dublin and didn’t do it, I highly recommend the Guinness Factory.

    • December 13 2010

      Oh, I made it to the Guinness Factory, of COURSE! Haha. I drank a lot of Guinness when I was in the UK. I was still sick at that point, though. :(

  • December 11 2010

    Go to the West. Two nights in Galway, then hit the small towns, the islands.

    • December 13 2010

      God I wanna be all over Galway.

  • December 11 2010

    I did Dublin (eh), Cork (love) and Galway (love) with a 20 euro day trip to the Cliffs of Moher and some castles and stuff. I enjoyed that a lot.

    • December 13 2010

      Nice! Cliffs of Moher are a must…and the Devil’s Causeway…

  • December 11 2010

    I feel the same way about Paris. I was there for a few days and ended up spraining my ankle and it was raining the whole week. I think you should do an Ireland do-over and visit the southern coast going through Dingle, Doolin, Kerry, Cork and all that good stuff. It is beautiful and the people are great. I took a 3 day Shamrockers tour but I’m sure renting a car would be even better so you can go at your own pace. I hope you go with your friend!

    • December 13 2010

      Oh god these comments are making me so excited now, hahaha. Thanks, Joya!

  • December 11 2010

    Let the swirling begin and never end. I think I’ve said that before, but bears repeating. Is that the right bear, or is it bare. No bare swirling, maybe a little bare swirling but not on the cliffs.

    • December 13 2010

      Swirling and twirling but NOT on the cliffs, okay, got it.

  • December 11 2010

    Go, go, go!! It’s no secret I love Ireland – you’ll love the nightlife in Galway and then head to Clifden and that area to the West for some of the smaller city charm :)

    • December 13 2010

      Eee! Yeah, I thought of you when I wrote this post, hahaha. Two weeks won’t be enough!

  • December 12 2010

    Hi, I’ve been reading your blog for a long time and thought I would comment seeing as I’m from Dublin! Sorry that you didn’t enjoy your time here! Hopefully if you’re in Dublin again you’ll have a better experience, although it probably will rain! Also minimum wage was never €18 haha i wish, more like €8! :(

    Also you have put Newfoundland really high on my travel list, it looks incredible! I’m intrigued about the cheap flights that you mention! :)

    • December 12 2010

      Oops, that was a typo, supposed to be 8! Although I do feel like it was higher at some point. I remember a bartender telling me and me being blown away.

      Don’t worry, I’m not one to shun an entire country because of one lousy experience. :) I know Ireland is everything I want it to be, it just didn’t happen that time around. You should definitely come visit sometime, you’d love NL too!

  • December 12 2010

    I was sick when I was in Ireland too! I didn’t much like it actually, but I think for the essentially the same reasons you cited – the sickness and the weather. If I were you I’d spend some time in the countryside somewhere for an authentic Irish feel that probably not many non-Irelanders get. I’ve never spent time in their countryside, but I know it’s there :)

    • December 13 2010

      Yes, precisely! I’d be happy to swing by Dublin again, of course, but not for such a long time. Maybe a night or two.

  • December 12 2010

    I definitely think you should visit Ireland again but I would recommend seeing something else on top of Dublin. You have to give it another chance but I imagine like many major cities, it doesn’t speak for the rest of the country! That is purely opinion because I have never been to Ireland but have heard a number of things. My desire to see tourist attractions while at the same time trying to get off the beaten path means I am stuck on what I personally want to see in Ireland too!

    Let me know when you are going (with your friend ;) ) because my boyfriend and I are planning a long overdue (we wanted to do this last year) trip to Ireland for our anniversary, which is St. Patrick’s Day! We haven’t made the plan yet but if you are there we should definitely try to be in the same place at least once! Good luck!

    • December 13 2010

      Oh damn, wouldn’t St. Patrick’s Day be AMAZING?! Hahaha. I think it’s gonna be more like April for me, but I’ll keep you posted for sure!

  • December 12 2010

    Greece is an awesome bucket list item. Whenever you make it there, let me know. I lived there last summer and absolutely love it. I’ll be back there and hope to go in on a vacation house with a few friends at some point down the line…

    • December 13 2010

      Thanks, Drew! I’m Greece obsessed, I’m just finding it incredibly difficult to make arrangements to live there. I’ll definitely be in touch!

  • December 12 2010

    There’s nothing worse than when your dream trip turns into a big disappointment (and I can see why yours did), but I think it’s terrific that you’re game enough to give it another try. Sometimes circumstances conspire against us on one trip; it’s always a good idea to give a place a second chance.

    • December 13 2010

      Thanks, Gray! I agree, it totally depends on the circumstances and the experience. I HATE when people shun a whole country because of one lousy setback.

  • December 12 2010

    I need to do Ireland too. On the cruise I took this past summer, I spent the week with a throng of Irish newlyweds and was basically adopted. I too have some couches that need crashing.

    • December 13 2010

      Hehe, dooo it! We can go together.

  • December 12 2010

    If you go you must visit the Skellig Islands – a world heritage site off the coast of County Kerry. It’s a wild boat ride to get out to them; the boat only makes the trip about 100 days per year & then you have to climb 600 steps to get to the top of the rocky island. There are beehive huts from when the monks lived there in the 6th C. It is magnificent. Also loved the Aran Islands.

    • December 13 2010

      Leigh, totally didn’t know about these, but THANKS for pointing it out! Amazing.

  • December 12 2010

    Whatever you do, don’t go to the UK. I am kidding. For me, visiting Ireland is like coming home. I feel at home there. The people have always been super but I do agree with you that getting out of Dublin is the way to go. When I was traveling to Ireland for work, I would stay in the Shelbrooke. It was gorgeous and I was privileged to have some local people to show me where to get a proper pint and eat. The people make the experience. I hope that you get a chance to go back and give Ireland a chance to redeem itself in your eyes. I’m heading to Greece at the end of this year with some friends. I can’t wait.

    Hope you get those bucket list items off your list!

    • December 13 2010

      Nice, thanks, Lindi! I can’t wait to go rural Ireland. I’ll visit Dublin again of course too, but there’s so much more to see and do.

  • December 12 2010

    That sucks that your trip to Ireland didn’t turn out so great. I had a similar thing happen in Paris, no rude people, but I got sick and didn’t get to enjoy any of my time there. It’s definitely a city I have to redo. Glad your giving Ireland a second chance. If flights are cheap from Newfoundland, I say go for it.

    • December 13 2010

      Hehe funny, I’ve heard several people say bad things about Paris but I had an amazing time there. All depends on the situation, right? I can’t wait to try Ireland again…

  • December 14 2010

    I’d recommend going to Galway and, from there, the countryside and Aran islands. I’d sing Dublin’s praises any day, because my Mum’s from there, and I have family ties and awesome memories of the place. The western countryside, however, is beautiful beautiful beautiful. Happy planning!

  • December 14 2010

    Like everyone else is saying, go back, but get out of Dublin!

    I traveled around Ireland for a week in 2007 (with an Irish rock band, no less), and had an amazing time. We spent about 2 days in Dublin, then hit up some northern Ireland spots (like Glendalough and Cavan), and eventually made our way down to Galway and Limerick. I LOVED Galway. We also took the ferry from Galway over to the Aran Islands, which is a MUST! It’s like stepping into another century over there, and the old fort on top of the sea cliffs is worth a visit.

  • January 07 2011

    Candice. I’ve been avoiding commenting on this one for a while because everytime I start writing it, I get all worked up. I get so sad thinking that anyone had a less than amazing time in Ireland and it doesn’t require a contiki tour to do it. I know you are, and you’ve gotten some amazing comments with tips so far, but you absolutely have to give it a second shot. You absolutely can have a great time in Dublin, but primarily, it is a city, that functions without tourists just fine. If you want to really FEEL ireland and get to know the culture, you’ve got to get out of the city. And it’s one of my favorite countries outside of NA for a good old fashioned roadtrip. The roads are easy, rental car companies relatively cheap and B&B’s plentiful. It’s also not a large place, and when you’re used to driving all around US/Canada, it can feel like the easiest place to drive around. People may argue with me, but I’d say the most picturesque and typical Irish experience is going to be had in the small towns in the South and West. Counties Cork, Limerick, Kerry, Clare and Galway are good places to start. I’m also a big fan of Co. Wicklow, Mayo and Sligo. Co. Donegal is where the big seacliffs are (not the Cliffs of Moher, those are in Co. Clare). And that’s just the Republic. There’s a ton to see in Northern Ireland as well. If you’re looking for a tour, look at the Paddywaggon tours or other day tours. That way you can have your own pace around the country but get some guidance. I recommend the one up to Carrick a Rede and Derry/Londonderry in N. Ireland from Belfast. It gives you a great history lesson on the conflict.

    Hope that’s not TMI. I sort of went on a tangent, but I had to get a word in :)

  • February 01 2013
    Brian

    Hi Candice, Did you get back since? I think a better state of health and a more prepared plan may be the thing. Dont forsake or give up on Dublin because a few rude people. Give Dublin 2 days and have lots of pints..try the Porterhouse pub for a change from guinness..this brews Irelands craft beers and its a wonderful experience as microbrews in Ireland are a rarity, but a real treat. Close to dublin..visit NEWGRANGE in the morning..ancient megalithtic tomb , 1000 years older than stonehenge. In the West I recommend Galway for an experience of a smaller but interesting town. Please try dingle in the extreme southwest ( next point west is Cape spear) for a night or 2 and this can give you a base for some good sight seeing etc. Most recommended of all visits is SKELLIGS.. a good day out as long as you dont mind heights. Try and take in a hurling game also for the experience…I would hate to think that the last visit gave you lasting bad memory.. Im a newfoundland fan myself and visited St Johns for 4 days in 2008…has a SUPER time, or so they told me next day!!! Anyway for anymore info email me at brinelarkin@gmail for any more local info required. Cheers and sorry for extended message. Brian.

    • February 13 2013

      Hi Brian!

      You’d be happy to know that I’m going back as early as next month. :) I’ll be spending more time in Dublin for sure, and then hopefully moseying my way around the country for a month or so, maybe setting up shop in Galway for a few weeks.

      Is it worth it to go to Belfast, you think? I’m interested, but also slightly intimidated.

      Thanks so much for taking out the time to offer up suggestions. I’m actually coming in search of my family in Cork or Kerry. Really excited!

      • February 19 2013
        Brian

        Hi Candice, thanks for the reply. I left a message Sunday but its not gone through. Good to hear you have a trip back on schedule..this one should make up for the last one with bells on !:). Try out a few nights in Dublin to start with at least..dont forget the porter house and taste the Oyster stout or plain porter..these are fresh stouts and in my humble opinion a better serve than Guinness. There is 2 porter house in the city, one at edge of temple bar and second is very central at bottom of grafton street.

        Temple bar area is the frech quarter of new orleans type of social experience best on weeknights as weekends are jammed!

        Galway sounds like a good base yes and much more compact than dublin, hope you like a lot of rain !!

        As regards Belfast, it is a must for your trip..its 1.5 hours on Bus from Dublin and you can do a day trip or even an overnighter. visit the Titanic quarter (good experience) and also the bus tour (a real eye opener). Dont be afraid , youll have a good time.There has been a bit of unrest of late but no safety concerns for travellers. Dont know what the northern irish will make of the Newfie Accent, they may be more scared than u:).

        Anyways keep in touch. Any questions just let me know..im happy to help..remember a little local knowledge can be invaluable. I also suggest getting a Loreena McKennit Cd before you come over to listen to the haunting celtic music..just to wet your whistle..

        Bye for now, Brian

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